San Martín de Valdeiglesias, Madrid, Spain
San Martín de Valdeiglesias is a town in the Sierra Oeste, at the western end of the Madrid region. It has a 15th-century castle in the middle of town, a group of old hermitages, vineyards that belong to the Vinos de Madrid wine area, and the San Juan reservoir with a Blue Flag beach. This post describes what to see and do, with castle hours and prices, and how to get there from Madrid.
Where it is
The municipality lies in the westernmost corner of the Comunidad de Madrid and borders the provinces of Ávila and Toledo. The M-501 and N-403 roads meet here. The official population on 1 January 2024 was 9,159, according to the town council, which quotes Spain’s statistics institute (INE).
The name means “valley of churches”. The town and its district once belonged to the nearby monastery of Santa María la Real, and several hermitages survive in and around the town.
Coracera Castle
The Castillo de la Coracera stands inside the town. It was built in the 15th century by Álvaro de Luna, Constable of Castile and favourite of King John II. In 1434 he bought the town and lordship of San Martín de Valdeiglesias from the monks for 30,000 maravedís and decided to build the castle. After his execution the property was disputed, until King Henry IV recognised his daughter María de Luna as heir. She married the second Duke of the Infantado, and that ducal house kept the castle until the 19th century. Since 2003 it has belonged to the Fundación Castillo de la Coracera, set up by the town council and a private owner.
The most visible part is the keep, which was both a defensive tower and a residence. Most of the castle has been restored. Inside, an audiovisual system projected on the walls explains the history of the district and of the fortress. Madrid’s tourist board adds that the castle houses a tourist information point and a wine shop with tastings, and that open-air classical concerts are held there in summer.
Visiting details, according to the town council:
- Hours: Fridays 16:00 to 18:00; Saturdays 11:00 to 14:00 and 16:00 to 18:00; Sundays 11:00 to 14:00.
- Prices: adults €4; pensioners and children €3; registered residents of the town €2.
The council lists special hours for Easter week, so it is worth confirming times before travelling.
The old town and the hermitages
The streets around the Plaza Real have old manor houses with coats of arms and stone-lintelled doors and windows. The parish church of San Martín Obispo has a central dome seven metres high. Six hermitages are still standing: Ecce Homo, La Sangre, La Salud, Cristo de la Humildad, Virgen de la Nueva and El Rosario. A signposted circular walk, the Ruta de las Ermitas, is 12.68 km long and rated of medium difficulty.
The council’s tourism office runs guided visits of the town. They start in the Plaza Real, last about two hours and must be booked in advance. Visitors who book directly with the council do not pay; the price is €3 per person when the visit is arranged through a company.
The San Juan reservoir
The Pantano de San Juan is the main reason many people from Madrid know the town. It has two areas authorised for bathing, Playa Virgen de la Nueva and El Muro. Virgen de la Nueva holds the Blue Flag. During the bathing season the regional health service tests the water every fifteen days and posts the results on the beach panels, and both beaches have lifeguards.
Rules apply on the beaches: no fires or gas cylinders, no cooking, no glass containers and no motor vehicles. In the marked bathing zones, boats and pets are not allowed during the season. Around the reservoir, local companies offer canoeing, paddle surf, sailing courses, climbing and archery. Close to town, the Bosque Encantado is a garden with more than 300 plant sculptures.
Wine, food and festivals
San Martín de Valdeiglesias is one of the four sub-zones of the Vinos de Madrid designation of origin. The typical wines are reds made from garnacha and whites from albillo real, a local grape. Several wineries offer tastings and guided visits to the cellar and vineyard. Local dishes include migas del pastor (fried breadcrumbs) and patatas revolconas (mashed potatoes with paprika and bacon).
The town has two local holidays: 8 September, the day of the Virgen de la Nueva, its patroness, and 11 November, the day of San Martín de Tours, its patron. Around the November date there is a tapas route in which local bars each prepare a special tapa.
Getting there
There is no need for a car. Interurban bus line 551 (Madrid – San Martín de Valdeiglesias – El Tiemblo/Cebreros) is the main link with the capital. The council currently gives Cuatro Vientos as the temporary starting point in Madrid, because of the works to put the A-5 road underground; the usual terminus is Príncipe Pío. Buses stop at the bus station on Avenida de Madrid. By car, take the A-5 out of Madrid and then the M-501.
For students
For students living in Madrid, San Martín is a full-day trip that combines a castle visit with a swim or a walk, at little cost. Those interested in the region’s wines can read the general post on Spanish wine, and other excursions are listed in villages in the Madrid area.
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